Whoooshh! The sound and sight of spray shooting from a wave sends shivers of satisfaction down a surfer’s spine
The hiss and splash of the spray, sounds like a monsoon shower on a hot sidewalk. The crystal clean fan of saltwater, momentarily backlit by the sun, explodes like a water based firework.
Here’s a sensational selection of surf spray photos, to celebrate those precious seconds of glory:
Surfer Dad is 2 today, hip, hip, hooray!
When speaking to the few who have read my blog, the posts remembered and discussed are those where I share a snippet of my life.
So for Surfer Dad’s 2nd Birthday, I’ve interviewed myself, using questions from old surf mag interviews.
Hopefully this will be more entertaining than posting my LinkedIn profile.
Which of your accomplishments outside the water would you say you’re most proud of?
Steph Gilmore, Surfer
Having a great life in Cornwall. It’s not easy to earn a respectable salary in a job you like, live with the woman you love and nurture a happy child. But with a lot of help from my friends, I have managed to do it and stay in the place I love the most – Cornwall.
Have you ever been contacted by fashion companies or modelling agencies?
Alana Blanchard, Freak Surf
I once appeared in a Liberal Democrats leaflet, because a local politician wanted his photo with a surfer. Beat that Blanchard!
When did you start surfing and why?
Alana Blanchard, Freak Surf
I started surfing when I was 15, two years after moving to Cornwall from London. It was an option on ‘activities week’ at school. I also did trampolining, community work and rock climbing, but surfing stuck.
Who was the biggest influence on your surfing?
Kelly Slater, Surfing
John Barlow. He was a temporary sports teacher in my secondary school. We would stay in his caravan on Constantine Golf Course at weekends and he’d teach us to surf – it was brilliant. Sadly, I don’t think teachers are trusted enough for this sort of thing to happen today. Tom Curren has had his moments too.
Who influences you now in your life?
Kelly Slater, Surfing
My partner, my daughter, my friends and my boss have all forced me to think different, and I’m probably a better person for it.
Also, Winnie The Pooh.
Your kids are surfers as well: do you think their future will be different from what you’ve experienced?
Tom Curren, Rip Curl Planet
My daughter is not quite a surfer yet. But hopefully this year…
Her future will be different, but the essence of surfing will hopefully remain the same.
You’re consistently recognized as one of the most stylish surfers—man or woman—in the sport. How would you define good style?
Steph Gilmore, Surfer
In the water I find other surfers barely notice the style of those around them, unless you’re showstopping pro or a laughable learner.
So a good style is a style you enjoy, a style that allows you to catch lots of waves and make the most of them, without annoying those around you.
However, my signature straight leg cutback with a hokey cokey arm wave manoeuvre, occasionally raises a few eyebrows.
Well, I am really interested to talk to you about your new board.
Shaun Tomson, ESPN
I haven’t had a new board for a while. I only own 3 boards – 1 x 9’1” performance longboard, 1 x Fluid Juice 6’6” all rounder and a 6’5” battered backup board.
Ideally I would have a twin fin, retro single fin, and a much shorter board in my quiver. But I have trouble enough deciding between longboard or shortboard, and a more varied quiver is unlikely to improve my surfing at age 38.
Do you worry about the threat of global warming and pollution on our best breaks?
Tyler Wright, Cooler
Yep, 20 years ago raw sewage was pumped straight into the sea in the UK. Thanks to relentless pressure from Surfers Against Sewage and other environmental groups, we now enjoy clean waves most of the time.
I try and do my bit, like taking home litter I find on the beach and supporting environmental groups.
You’ve been known not only as a role model, but a bit of a moral compass. You’ve kept tabs on the media and the establishment when you think they’re going in the wrong direction. How are we doing today, as far as the media and the general surf world?
Shaun Tomson, ESPN
Surf mags are mostly adverts, big surf brands are downsizing dramatically, and women’s pro surfing struggles to attract sponsors. I would say the commercial world of surfing is suffering.
On the bright side there’s some great surf blogs available.
Name your top five Aussie surf spots?
• Lefties – north of Margaret River. Rode my biggest wave there, a local said it was 14ft.
• Byron Bay – spent six weeks enjoying the waves and wild-life.
• Phillip Island – near Melbourne. Only place I’ve paddled out to a lone surfer and he was pleased to meet me. Apparently it reduces the odds! (Hint: Shark).
• Bells Beach – the most beautiful spot I’ve never surfed. Surprisingly undeveloped and unrideably small when I visited.
• Not sure about a fifth, but Occy could only name three!
Do you surf much yourself these days?
In the winter, I go when I can. In the summer, I make sure I surf at least once a week.
I’d like to surf more, and sometimes I do. But as a surfer, father, lover, friend and hard-worker, there’s often a conflict of interests.
If you weren’t a surfer, you’d be…
Less happy, less healthy and not so environmentally friendly. But better off financially.
When that day does come and you do choose to retire, what do you think you’ll do?
Taj Burrow, Surfer
When I retire (which is at least 20yrs away) I’ll surf more. I’ll never retire from surfing.
As the surf quote goes “There is nothing, nothing, more sad than a surfer who used to surf.”
If you have any questions you’d like to ask me, Surfer Dad, please leave a comment and I promise to answer.
Surf fitness should be taken seriously.
But there’s a few dedicated surfers taking shoreline stretches to a new level.
Could this be the Ultimate Pre-Surf Warm Up routine (and funniest)?
Sorry for being slack with new posts recently, this video has inspired me to work harder.
Here’s what the gang at Finisterre have to say:
Spring is a time of change; solitary winter sessions melt way and familiar faces return to the fold, recharging the line-up with tales of travel, of landscapes scoured and waves scored.
It is a time of coming together to exchange ideas, collaborate and forge new plans. In the spirit of the season, and to celebrate the launch of their Spring range, this Easter will see iconic cold water surf company Finisterre opening the doors on their Wheal Kitty workshop for a weekend of films, stories, ideas, inspiration and a few drinks.
Friday March 29th, 8pm
Finisterre premiere their first short film, ‘The Road Less Travelled’ followed by a special screening, in aid of charity Waves for Water of Sight | Sound Dir. Mikey DeTemple. Following a band of visionary surfers including Chris Del Moro, Kassia Meador and Ryan Burch and combining stunning cinematography and a haunting soundtrack this film is a modern classic.
Saturday March 30th, 6pm
Finisterre host internationally renowned cold water surf photographer and author Tim Nunn as he talks travel, photography, dealing with bears and surfing amongst icebergs for his latest project Numb.
Tickets to the evening events are free but numbers are extremely limited. To reserve your place, call Tegan at the workshop on: 01872 554 481.
It’s official, Kelly Slater is The Best Male Surfer Ever.
Kelly claimed 50% of the votes in the prestigious Surfer Dad Best Male Surfer Ever Poll.
Loveable legends Tom Curren and Gerry Lopez came joint second, and Laird Hamilton got towed in to third place.
This will probably come as no surprise to you or Kelly Slater, and statistically there was never any argument.
But surfing is emotional!
So when choosing the ‘best ever surfer’, I was quietly hoping the character of Tom Curren or the debt we owe to Duke Kahanamoku, could overcome the commercial and competitive success of Kelly Slater.
So when next asked “Who’s the best surfer ever?“, I shall bow to the democratic choice and answer “Kelly Slater” – then sigh.
Thanks to everyone who voted.
As the world’s population booms, and the popularity of surfing explodes, crowded waves are inevitable.
So instead of shouting, pushing and psyching fellow wave lovers off your wave, invite all those around you to join in and celebrate – enjoy a party wave!
Join the party at a surf spot near you:
Kelia Moniz is the reigning ASP Women’s World Longboard Champion, and she’s set to become a familiar face in mainstream surf media.
But Kelia Moniz is more than just a pretty face, she’s got surfing in the blood and can put her toes on the nose or smack the lip with any stick. The future’s bright for Kelia and for women’s longboarding.
Surfing in the blood
Kelia’s father is Tony Moniz. He’s respected worldwide as a big wave rider and has surfed professionally for 30 years. In 1991 Tony coached the prestigious Hawaii World Amateur Team and he’s been a perennial invitee to the Quicksilver Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational. Tony now runs the family business ‘Faith Surf School’ in Oahu.
Kelia began surfing at the age of five but her father never pushed her to surf, and she didn’t get her own board until she was 10.
Kelia was lucky enough to live, hangout and get educated on the beach in Oahu – as Kelia was home schooled with her four brothers. This meant when the waves were good, she did her work the night before and went surfing early the next morning with her family.
Long and the short of it
Kelia is the Queen of longboarding but she also rips on a shortboard. Admittedly she’s spent most her life riding longboards, but added a shortboard to her quiver to compete with her brothers.
Kelia’s career with sponsors Roxy began at 13 as a shortboarder, but that was short lived and she rejoined Roxy at 16 as a longboarder.
When she was 15, Kelia achieved a second place finish in the Roxy Jam Honolulu on a longboard, and a first place finish at the NSSA High School Nationals on a shortboard.
In November last year Kelia beat Chelsea Williams in the Swatch Girls Pro in China and was crowned ASP Women’s World Longboard Champion, aged 19.
Kelia Moniz is the product of a fabulous family recipe with Hawaiian, Japanese, Chinese, Portuguese and Irish ingredients, but her first name is actually Greek and it means “beautiful.”
Roxy no doubt recognised Kelia’s style, grace and beauty are kind to the camera, both in and out of the water. With an infectious and dazzling smile, a dancer’s poise and energy, and all the sauce and sexiness of a swimsuit model – Kelia is the complete package.
If she knows it, she don’t show it. Recently asked by ‘Gurl magazine’: do you ever get self-conscious about your body?
Kelia answered: “I just think that there’s Photoshop, and if I look really bad, I know that photographers will use Photoshop to make me look good. It helps”.
The future’s bright
Despite her exceptional ascent to surf stardom, Kelia remains humble and grounded. As a local girl cruising around Oahu, her friends holler ‘sista’ (her childhood nickname) and she stops to hug and greet them all.
In her Dad’s era, Kelia saw how female surfers trying to compete “had to be agro and butch to be up-to-snuff”. But she’s eager to show the beauty and grace that exists in surfing. When the competing is over, Kelia aspires to be a designer for Roxy.
In summary, I wholly concur with the closing statement on Kelia’s Tumblr blog: Known as the “Princess of Hawaii,” Kelia effortlessly embodies the qualities of a Roxy girl and is sure to be a role model to the next generation of surfer girls.
Here’s a more visual tribute to Kelia’s talent: