Since becoming a father I’ve tortured myself with the question “am I still a surfer”?
For example: over the last few weeks the surf has been firing. My childless friends text me with updates like “9 surfs in 5 days, my arms are dropping off”. I have been in once.
After 3 years of mentally beating myself up, I’ve reached 2 conclusions:
1. When the surf is good, stop reading texts from childless friends
2. There are different types of surfer
In my opinion there are 4 types of surfer:
Hardcore surfer
A hardcore surfer
I don’t just mean the mad-men who fly across the world surfing monster waves. The hardcore surf at every opportunity and will sacrifice everything for surfing.
Jobs, homes, holidays and friends are all chosen on their ability to facilitate surfing. Jobs for the hardcore have flexible hours and are located near the beach, allowing maximum wave riding opportunity.
Home will be chosen for it’s proximity to the hardcore surfer’s favourite break. Holidays will be to the best surf spot according to budget and season.
Friends and partners will be those who surf, or can at least tolerate their companion’s saltwater addiction.
Hungry surfer
Hungry Surfer Dad and Daughter
This is not a burger joint. A hungry surfer is ravenous for waves but due to other commitments can not satisfy their appetite.
The hungry surfer is not as committed as the hardcore type. They have chosen to prioritise, or at least share free time, with other aspects of their life. I am a hungry surfer.
My daughter is my priority. Instead of dawnies I feed, dress and deliver my daughter to nursery or Granny. Instead of surfing 3 times a day at the weekend, I grab a quick splash whilst my daughter builds sandcastles with Mummy.
Other hungry surfers have their own diversions, preventing them from committing to the hardcore surfer lifestyle.
Half-hearted surfer
Half-hearted surfer
The half-hearted surfer lacks commitment and considers surfing a hobby!
They only surf during summertime and even then only at the weekend. They have one board and one wetsuit, and it’s the same one they’ve had for years.
The half-hearted surfer enjoys surfing, but it’s low on the list of priorities. They probably live in a land-locked city, following the money over ‘the feeling’.
Hopeless surfer
Hopeless surfer
The hopeless surfer has only been surfing a handful of times in their life, but tells anyone who will listen that they’re a surfer.
They own a surfboard but it sits gathering dust in the corner of the room. More as a conversation piece than an actual board for riding waves.
Either that or they have all the gear and no idea. Following a single surf lesson whilst on holiday, they rushed out and maxed the credit card so they could ‘buy in’ to the surfing lifestyle.
Am I still a surfer?
Yes, I am still a surfer. Just a hungry surfer, who’s tummy rumbles for those hardcore pre-fatherhood days.
Really liked that article, happy to consider myself a hungry surfer too. I’ve always consoled myself that even though I till suck atleast I’m committed to the cause. Brightons full of hopeless surfers, I work with one with the exact profile you discribed, makes me wanna puke, I change the subject if he ever brings up surfing with me.
Really liked that article, happy to consider myself a hungry surfer too. I’ve always consoled myself that even though I till suck atleast I’m committed to the cause. Brightons full of hopeless surfers, I work with one with the exact profile you discribed, makes me wanna puke, I change the subject if he ever brings up surfing with me.
Thanks for the kind words, keep committed!
Thanks for the kind words, keep committed!
What a great blog! I’m a newbie dad to an amazing little 7 month girl and have just moved from the North Coast of Cornwall right next to the surf to the edge of Dartmoor due to a fantastic job opportunity….and my question has been the same – “am I still a surfer”? The answer of course is a massive F yeah! Sure, right now the 3 surfs a day at my old local spots seem like another life but it all comes down to commitment and love of riding waves. I actually feel that by being a dad and not living right next to the beach anymore is actually making me MORE stoked and motivated to surf even more! Hungry surfer? You betcha! Keep the blog posts coming!
Thanks Toby. Respect to your positive attitude. Had a Christmas break with the blog posts but will have something new soon.
Thanks Toby. Respect to your positive attitude. Had a Christmas break with the blog posts but will have something new soon.
What a great blog! I’m a newbie dad to an amazing little 7 month girl and have just moved from the North Coast of Cornwall right next to the surf to the edge of Dartmoor due to a fantastic job opportunity….and my question has been the same – “am I still a surfer”? The answer of course is a massive F yeah! Sure, right now the 3 surfs a day at my old local spots seem like another life but it all comes down to commitment and love of riding waves. I actually feel that by being a dad and not living right next to the beach anymore is actually making me MORE stoked and motivated to surf even more! Hungry surfer? You betcha! Keep the blog posts coming!
Great writing. enjoyed reading your perspective on surfing and commitment towards. Congrats with your new member in the family!
Thanks Shana, I like your Saltwater Life blog too. All the best.
Thanks Shana, I like your Saltwater Life blog too. All the best.
Great writing. enjoyed reading your perspective on surfing and commitment towards. Congrats with your new member in the family!
You are forgetting the meth binging surfer.
I think ‘types of substance abusing surfers’ is a whole new article!
I think ‘types of substance abusing surfers’ is a whole new article!
You are forgetting the meth binging surfer.
What a funny but true article
Well i was a hopeless surfer, surfing about every 12 months when we came to Cornwall on holiday, But the pull of the sea in my Viking Blood grew too strong, so we just relocated to Cornwall 4 weeks ago. Newly purchased longboard, i now consider myself a hardcore surfer…but surfing makes me hungry and i am still hopeless at surfing…early days, gunna have a beach meeting tomorrow somewhere like Holywell or Newquay me thinks.
Hi Pete,
It always makes me happy when people take the plunge and move to the sea for a better way of life.
I hope tropical Cornwall rewards your commitment and your new longboard serves you well.
See you outback dreckly.
Popped over to South Fistral this morning….rather choppy for me…back to the drawing board me thinks
Reckon The Bay will be ok tomorrow, but wind’s not looking kind for the next few days. Happy wave hunting.
pretty high winds too…. will try and find a sheltered bay for my daughter and I i reckon
pretty high winds too…. will try and find a sheltered bay for my daughter and I i reckon
Reckon The Bay will be ok tomorrow, but wind’s not looking kind for the next few days. Happy wave hunting.
Popped over to South Fistral this morning….rather choppy for me…back to the drawing board me thinks
Hi Pete,
It always makes me happy when people take the plunge and move to the sea for a better way of life.
I hope tropical Cornwall rewards your commitment and your new longboard serves you well.
See you outback dreckly.
What a funny but true article
Well i was a hopeless surfer, surfing about every 12 months when we came to Cornwall on holiday, But the pull of the sea in my Viking Blood grew too strong, so we just relocated to Cornwall 4 weeks ago. Newly purchased longboard, i now consider myself a hardcore surfer…but surfing makes me hungry and i am still hopeless at surfing…early days, gunna have a beach meeting tomorrow somewhere like Holywell or Newquay me thinks.
What I noticed is that the type of surfer can be independant from their level.
It’s mostly depending on their location.
I’ve seen people ripping but don’t care that much about surfing, they are just doing it because it’s in their backyard and well, because they can.
One the other hand I’ve seen countless people spending every cent they got in surf trips for holidays or week end while they don’t even have a sea in their country.
So yes, definitely a commitment thing ! Or an appeal for addictions of all sorts !
I am also in the hungry ones, lucky enough to surf when I’m available, but unlucky enough not to be available often ! Arrrgh
Hi Alex,
I hadn’t considered the couldn’t-care-less rippers. I know who you mean, especially the younger rippers. I’ve seen rich kids who live by the beach, get all the gear and have no need to work so send all summer surfing and partying. Then when they get old enough to leave home they become stockbrokers in the city and never surf again!
Thanks for taking the time to comment, and really like your blog. Cheers
Hi Andrew !
Haha that’s exactly what I meant! There are also the expat kids. They really seem they couldn’t care less, and they are ripping like maniacs nonetheless, that’s just depressing !
Thanks to you for having checked my blog, your feedback is appreciated
Hi Andrew !
Haha that’s exactly what I meant! There are also the expat kids. They really seem they couldn’t care less, and they are ripping like maniacs nonetheless, that’s just depressing !
Thanks to you for having checked my blog, your feedback is appreciated
Hi Alex,
I hadn’t considered the couldn’t-care-less rippers. I know who you mean, especially the younger rippers. I’ve seen rich kids who live by the beach, get all the gear and have no need to work so send all summer surfing and partying. Then when they get old enough to leave home they become stockbrokers in the city and never surf again!
Thanks for taking the time to comment, and really like your blog. Cheers
What I noticed is that the type of surfer can be independant from their level.
It’s mostly depending on their location.
I’ve seen people ripping but don’t care that much about surfing, they are just doing it because it’s in their backyard and well, because they can.
One the other hand I’ve seen countless people spending every cent they got in surf trips for holidays or week end while they don’t even have a sea in their country.
So yes, definitely a commitment thing ! Or an appeal for addictions of all sorts !
I am also in the hungry ones, lucky enough to surf when I’m available, but unlucky enough not to be available often ! Arrrgh
Just because someone isn’t a hardcore Surfer, doesn’t mean they can’t enjoy surfing. Surfing is a recreational solo active sport. Requires vast knowledge and experience in the ocean. Requires a love for catching and riding waves. Also standing up and riding on a board. Such as a skateboard or snowboard also. Hardcore Surfer as somebody who probably surfs all the time every day almost and their top priority is this. A Soul Surfer is someone who just likes to paddle out on a sunny day Kickback catch a few waves. Have a good time. And not worry about the Crowds or competitiveness.
Hi Miko. I am surprised that surfers were even labelled (how can you put a surfer in a box?), but especially if someone has written about mindful surfing you would think that this ‘type’ – a soul surfer would be one to highlight. Being a soul surfer I like to surf everyday if possible, or at least so something that brings me in touch with nature, especially the ocean (run along the beach, pick up plastic whilst walking etc). getting away from crowds is high on the list and I prefer to ride a second rate uncrowded wave than a well known classic that has a crowd.
Hi Miko. I am surprised that surfers were even labelled (how can you put a surfer in a box?), but especially if someone has written about mindful surfing you would think that this ‘type’ – a soul surfer would be one to highlight. Being a soul surfer I like to surf everyday if possible, or at least so something that brings me in touch with nature, especially the ocean (run along the beach, pick up plastic whilst walking etc). getting away from crowds is high on the list and I prefer to ride a second rate uncrowded wave than a well known classic that has a crowd.
Just because someone isn’t a hardcore Surfer, doesn’t mean they can’t enjoy surfing. Surfing is a recreational solo active sport. Requires vast knowledge and experience in the ocean. Requires a love for catching and riding waves. Also standing up and riding on a board. Such as a skateboard or snowboard also. Hardcore Surfer as somebody who probably surfs all the time every day almost and their top priority is this. A Soul Surfer is someone who just likes to paddle out on a sunny day Kickback catch a few waves. Have a good time. And not worry about the Crowds or competitiveness.